I have just returned from my ninja pilgrimage to Japan. Besides learning about fighting in Japanese armor, I made my yearly visit to my favorite Nichiren temple, Hondoji in Matsudo city, close to Kashiwa city where I stay with my fellow ninjas who travel to Japan this time of year to train with Masaaki Hatsumi in Daikyomyosai, a three day training event held in honor of his birthday.
I planned well this year having learned from my incomplete experiences of previous trips. My hope was to be able to do Gongyo or perhaps just chant with the priests at the Hondoji. I asked for help from the hotel staff in finding out when Gongyo was held Saturday morning . The answer I got was “8:00”. Still unsure whether or not I had been understood, I awoke early Saturday morning and began my trek, intending to arrive at the gates of Hondoji in time for the 8:00 Gongyo.
Back-tracking
It’s difficult to understand the present day reality of Buddhism in Japan and specifically the state of Buddhist temples without actually going and visiting them. Back in the 80’s in NSA there were tales passed around without real experience or knowledge regarding heretical sects of Nichiren Buddhism who worshipped foxes and other things, something that any faithful Nichiren Shoshu of America believer knew was heretical.
Looking back to that time in my memory I too was ensnared by the seductive idea of being the right sect of Nichiren Buddhism, the only right sect. That was important and still is too many SGI members whom have never taken the time to begin to understand the real history of our Buddhism. SGI continues even today to support Nichiren Shoshu’s bizarre and completely unsupported history of the only right disciple, the only right object and the only right priesthood. This forever sets the value scale for how most non-Japanese view Nichiren’s Buddhism.
In fact it seems that few Japanese understand the difference between any of the Buddhist sects and many seem to confuse Shinto with Buddhism. This is natural. It’s how the history of most world religions has unfolded. From the time of the founder of any given religious revolution there naturally comes a period of decline when the religion is passed down through the family generations and the real spirit and message becomes obscured by time and mindless tradition. Also natural are the appearance of revisionist movements, like the Soka Gakkai, which breathe new life into the original movement.
And yet we non-Japanese Nichiren Buddhists seem quite content to pass severe judgment on anything that doesn’t fit our very strict standard of what is right and what is wrong. It’s hard for Gakkai-trained Buddhists (which includes practically all Nichiren Buddhists, Gakkai or ex-Gakkai) to understand how something as hands-on as daily Gongyo and Daimoku, the very lifeblood of this Buddhism, could itself become obscured by the dust of time, not to mention consumer distaste for something so unappealing as daily practice.
This is truly Ten Chi Jin, the workings of Heaven, Earth and Man. In the eyes of the Ninja, it is neither bad nor good; it simply is the way things are.
Most SGI members don’t know that in 1536 when a Nichiren Buddhist lay follower challenged and then defeated a Tendai monk in a public debate the warrior-monks of Mt. Hiei descended upon the city in military force and burned down all 21 of the Nichiren Buddhist head temples in Kyoto as well as the whole southern half of the city and a good portion of the northern half. This event is known as the Tenmon Persecution. To merely survive all these hundreds of years is in itself proof of life. To judge a temple as heretical based on values set forth by an upstart sect founded just after the Second World War seems immature to me at this point in my journey towards self-discovery. THIS is truly Ten Chi Jin.
The Visit
Hondoji temple is beautiful. There is no doubt about that. In true temple fashion it is a vast temple grounds housing several temple buildings, dorms, and shrines as well as gorgeous trees whose leaves turn wonderful colors this time of year and hydrangeas – ok, I don’t know what those are. Sorry.
Funny as it seems now one of those shrines includes foxes. Another shrine houses these ceramic little dolls with red caps which, once purchased from the temple charm shop and left at this shrine (there were literally hundreds), one could expect one’s wish to come true. Yeah, decline is the right term (scroll down to the bottom of the Hondoji pictures).
But it’s ok. No really, it is O K…
I in fact arrived in time, actually early. From the train station it is a 15 minute walk along a wonderful tree and bamboo lined street through Matsuda city. I sacrificed both breakfast and coffee (an enormous offering to the Buddha) in order to get there. As I awaited the 8:00 opening two different older Japanese folk stopped at the gates of the temple during their morning walk to clap twice and bow in reverence to the temple. Whether or not they were actually Nichiren Buddhists is doubtful. If they were I would have expected them to perhaps do Sansho. But maybe that’s my Gakkai value system kicking in again.
I stopped at the shop at the entrance and found an acolyte priest to ask about Gongyo. I in fact had not been understood correctly. At this historical temple Gongyo was performed only on special occasions. I experienced sadness and disappointment and perhaps a little cynicism, but I quickly recovered. The temple was open to me and a handful of Japanese tourists. Every one of them appeared to be serious photographers. The trees had turned bright red, orange and yellow and the primary interest in this Nichiren temple was in its Fall colors, not Nichiren. I walked around and took pictures of my own, especially enjoying the bamboo grove from which they harvested lumber. I also enjoyed a canned coffee from one of the ubiquitous vending machines on the grounds.
The two larger temple buildings housed ornate alters containing detailed statues of Nichiren, another Gakkai no-no, both equipped with motion sensors which lit the interior of the temple for visitor’s viewing as one approached the stairs.
On my way out I spoke with a young woman, another acolyte by her clothing, whom I asked about Gongyo. She informed me of the infrequent schedule and then asked if I was visiting Buddhist temples. I responded that in fact I was a Nichiren Buddhist and that Hondoji was the only temple I was interested in visiting. She enquired as to the length of my stay in Japan to which I replied was almost complete. I regret my answer now as I do not know if she was prepared to offer me a chance to meet with the temple priest were I staying longer. This interaction will factor significantly in my plans for next year’s visit.
I purchased two charms from the temple shop, a little gold medal of the largest stupa on the temple grounds in a little case meant to be hung from my rear view mirror, and one of the little ceramic dolls intended for the wish-granting shrine. I kept it of course, I mean after all I am Gakkai- trained and I do chant Daimoku to have my wishes granted.
Rev. Greg, Shidoshi